Blue Tears - Poetry in Motion
There’s a quiet electricity that runs through Ray Chu Studios’ Spring/Summer 2026 collection. At the Bishopsgate Institute in the City of London Ray Chu showcased his latest collection, taking inspiration from the poetic allure of the ocean at dusk and the luminous “blue tears” that glisten along Taiwans midnight shores.
Ray Chu is a Taiwanese designer who established his eponymous brand in 2016, he uses deadstock fabrics, organic cotton and vegan leather to create innovative pieces. The show opened with a women’s look featuring a safety belt bralette styled with a contoured maxi skirt. Ray’s genderless approach and sexy appeal was pronounced in this collection, I mean if Martine Rose and Peter Do had a baby. In regards to making clothes that are genderless, Ray Chu previously disclosed “The only one thing we need to pay attention to is the biological difference to make the clothes fits better, so for some styles the pattern might still be different due to biological differences.”
His main inspirations are Thierry Mugler and Alexander McQueen, Ray is known for fusing cultural narratives with sharp tailoring and sustainable design. Recently he co-created a new vegan leather with recycled tea leaves and plastics and after his Shanghai debut, since 2022 Ray Chu has secured a recurring spot at LFW.
At the heart of this collection are structured shoulders, with clinched wasists that help to create powerful, sculpted proportions. Plant-based upcycled fabrics can be found throughout the collection with new textiles including jersey pieces made from crystalline ice plant fibers and mint based fabric.
This collection also features continued collaborator Japanese sexual wellness brand TENGA Japan and offers a wardrobe that speaks to progressive retailers and consumers worldwide, whilst reimagining contemporary fashion with depth and environmental awareness.
